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Frequently Asked Questions

                                                               

Are you having a certain problem that occurs when painting with a firable paint or non firable paint?

 Well now you read below and your answer will probably be there.

If not simply email  customerservice@ceramicartspace.com  and we will try to get you the answer! 

Please be as brief and specific as possible. We try to reply all to all emails within 3 hours or less. 

Another great service www.ceramicartspace.com provides the ceramic crafting community.

 

Q: How long does it take orders to ship out to us?
A: Most of the time items go out within 2-3 working days and take between 3-10 days to arrive.

Depending where you are located and the shipping service you choose.

Q: Is your web site secure to do credit card transactions?
A: Yes it is, you can see our certificate and other information on our home page.

Q: How long has Ceramic Art Space been in business?
A:18 years and growing strong!

Q: What's the difference between underglazes and glazes?
A: Generally underglazes are used when multiple colors are desired and areas are going to be left unpainted,

then clear glaze is applied and fired.

By having all areas covered it allows item to be dinnerware safe.

Glazes are the color and the finish all in one and if using only one color.

Its a much faster process to use glazes.

There are are also lots of interesting choices of glaze colors that can be used.

Q: Why do some cone temperatures have a 0 in front of them?
A: The zero represents low fire and a cone number without a zero is high fire.

Q: Can all underglazes be used on greenware (raw unfired clay)?
A: No, some are specifically made for greenware and some only for bisque.

Please check the label for proper application.

Q: How long should you let clay dry before firing?
A: It varies from clay to clay but anywhere between 7-20 days and it must be bone dry.

Q: Can you fire greenware and glazeware in the same load firing?
A: No, the both require different cone temperatures.

 Firing them together will affect one or the other in different ways.

Q: What is slip?
A: Slip is ceramic in liquid form that is poured into molds to create slip cast items.

Q: Can kiln wash damage your kiln?
A: Yes, if it gets on the elements of your kiln it can burn them out.

Only remedy is to replace the element (s) affected.

Always place kiln wash on the surface of the kiln shelves.

Wash off any left on the edges with a wet spounge.

 And when putting them away lay them down kiln wash side to kiln wash side only.

Kiln wash particles can get into your glazeware leaving pieces.

Q: Do you carry plastercraft the doesnt require firing & is painted with acrylic paints?
A: Yes, we carry a full line of non-fire plastercraft and all the supplies to go along with it.

Can I apply glaze directly to greenware?

No.  Firing glazes on greenware is an unsatisfactory shortcut to a finished object and, more often than not, will produce a less than perfect finished piece. Gases are released from the clay when firing greenware. If you apply a glaze over greenware, gases will be released through the glaze. This can cause imperfections in the glazed surface.

My fired glaze appears cloudy, why?

A glaze can appear cloudy because it was over-applied or underfired.  You can try to fix by refiring the piece to the proper cone or fire one cone hotter than original cone if the glaze was over applied.

My fired glaze appears cloudy, why?

A glaze can appear cloudy because it was over-applied or underfired.  You can try to fix by refiring the piece to the proper cone or fire one cone hotter than original cone if the glaze was over applied.

My glaze cratered or bubbled, why?

Craters or bubbles are caused by underfiring, a too thick application of glaze, or immature bisque.  To remedy, sand or grind down the bubbles, add a thin coat of glaze and refire to proper cone.

My glaze left pin-holes, why? Can I fix it?

You may see pin-holes in your glaze because of underfired bisque, dust on ware, applying glaze to greenware, firing too rapidly, improperly adjusted slip, or firing wet glazes.  To remedy, apply a thin coat of glaze before refiring, refire to proper cone.

My piece has a gritty surface, what caused this?

A gritty surface can be caused by an insufficient application of glaze or because the glaze was misfired.  To remedy, reapply the glaze and fire to proper cone.

My piece has blisters, what caused this?

Blistering can be caused by over-application or under-application of the glaze, overfired or underfired glaze or a poorly ventilated kiln.

My red glaze fired out to a grey color, what happened?

Red fired products containing cadmium can experience a washed out or greyed appearance if they are fired too hot, do not have enough color applied, or are fired with items decorated with copper formula glazes or greenware.

What caused my glaze to craze?

Crazing is caused by immature bisque, thermal shock, improperly formulated body, or a heavy glaze application.  This can sometimes be fixed by refiring the piece one cone hotter than the original cone.

What causes glaze to crawl?

Dust on ware or glaze puddling in recessed areas may cause glaze to crawl.  You can try to fix this by removing the dust, reapplying the glaze and firing to proper cone.

Why did my glaze leave bare spots after I fired my piece?

Bare spot causes include; too heavy an application of glaze or underglaze, oil from the skin, accumulation of dust or other foreign substances, or hard spots on the bisque.

Why did my metallic (SY) glaze turn brown or grey?

Metallic glazes, SY553, SY554, & SY1025 must be fired to cone 04 to mature the color. Do not fire with greenware.

Why did my Satin Glaze fire out shiny?

If satin glazes are fired hotter than a cone 06 they will fire out shiny.

My greenware has hard spots, what caused this and how do I fix?

Hard spots result from the clay being packed tightly against the mold by the force of pouring.  To prevent this from occuring pour against or over a palette knife or piece of wood, pour with a circular motion or pour against the sleeve of the mold to break the fall of the slip.

What caused my bisque to distort?

Bisque can distort from overfiring or being incorrectly removed from the mold.

What causes a heavy ring around the ware?

A heavy ring around the ware can result if you stop pouring for just a second or two.

What causes many fine ring lines on my ware?

Ring lines on greenwareare caused by the slip being poured into the mold too slowly or the slip being too heavy.  You can prevent this by speeding up the flow of slip as you pour or if your slip was too heavy, thin with water.

What causes pinholes in my greenware?

Pinholes can be a result of different variables;
 

  • The mold was filled too fast.
  • The slip consistency was too thick, trapping air in the clay body.
  • The mold was too wet when cast, trapping air against the wall of the mold.
  • The mold might have been dusty or dirty.
How can I prevent my plate from warping?

You can prevent a plate from warping by;

  • Letting the plate remain in the front side of the mold.
  • Removing the back or footed side of the mold first. The plate may need to be released by air pressure, then dried overnight in the mold.
How can I prevent the sinking of flat items?

Prop leather-hard ware up on its side, letting the piece dry between the props. A piece of sheet rock, another mold and foam rubber pads make good props.

I do not have forced air and my ware is sticking in the mold. What can I do?

If your ware is sticking to the mold you can try:

  • Letting the ware dry in the mold a little longer.
  • Using a rubber mallet to hit the edge of the mold. This may need to be repeated several times.
Many of my molds have tiny pouring holes. Is there any easy way to pour these?

There are several things you can do to make pouring a mold with tiny holes easier;

  • Thin the slip slightly with water.
  • Do not cast as heavily.
  • Drain only if necessary. Often a tiny piece can be poured solid.
What causes my flat items (tiles and appliqués) to warp?

Flat items (tiles and appliqués) warp because:

  • The ware was dried too fast. Slow down the drying time by covering the casting with a plastic bag.
  • The drying must be done on a flat, even surface.
  • The pieces must dry uniformly, not just from the edges.
  • Place a piece of sheet rock over the ware to keep it flat.
When I opened my mold, the ware had collapsed. What happened?

If the ware collapses when opening the mold, it is likely the mold was drained too fast.

  • If the pouring hold is small, drain more slowly.
  • Listen for a gurgling sound. If this occurs, ease up on the speed of draining.
  • A collapsed piece is caused by a vacuum while the mold was draining. Air could not enter the mold cavity. Be sure the pour hold remains open after draining the slip.
Will using air pressure to release the ware help with my overall casting?

Yes, air pressure lifts the piece away from the mold wall, but avoid too strong or too direct an air blast. Use air after the mold has been open for a period of time.  Air is especially helpful for flat pieces and highly detailed pieces.

Mask 'n Peel: How do I apply and Mask n’ Peel?

Always dampen brush or sponge thoroughly with Duncan Brush Cleaner and squeeze out excess before loading with Mask n’ Peel. Apply one good coat of Mask n’ Peel to desired areas. Allow Mask n’ Peel to dry thoroughly before applying color over it.

Mask 'n Peel: The Mask 'n Peel product looks black in the jar, what caused this?

When this discoloration occurs it means the product has been frozen and is no longer usable.

Mask n’ Peel: The product peeled off in layers after it dried, what caused this?

This happens when applied too heavily so it causes mask to be dry on surface but not underneath.

Patch-A-Tatch: How do I use Patch-A-Tatch?

Gently scratch crisscross lines on areas to be joined. Using a soft brush, moisten scored area or broken edges with water. Use the same brush to apply a good coat of Patch-A-Tatch to these areas. Quickly attach or fit the pieces together and hold securely for a few seconds. Brush a little Patch-A-Tach over the joint and, when set and thoroughly dry, scrape, sand, sponge or otherwise finish, and the piece is ready for decorating or firing.

Patch-A-Tatch: On what types of products can Patch-A-Tatch be used?

Patch-A-Tatch is used for mending broken greenware or bisque that will be glaze fired or as cement for joining attachments to greenware or bisque that will be painted with nonfired products.

Wax Resist: Does the Wax Resist come off during firing?

Yes, the wax is burned off during firing, which reveals the designs or base colors.

Wax Resist: What is Wax Resist?

It is a wax created to repel underglazes and glazes applied over it.

Wax Resist: When I used Wax Resist I noticed there is beading over the designed area, what caused this?

This is caused by excess color not removed before firing. This can be prevented by removing excess color by pouncing with a dampened sponge before firing.

Wax Resist: When I used Wax Resist why did some of the glaze come out on the area that had Wax Resist?

When using wax resist you need to be sure to clean any glaze off of the waxed area because the wax resist melts at a low temperature and any glaze left on the wax resist will fall onto the resist area.

Concepts: Can Concepts be used on greenware?

Concepts is an underglaze for Bisque. For greenware, E-Z Strokes and Cover-Coats can be used.

Concepts: How many coats do I need to apply for an opaque or translucent look?

For an opaque look three coats should be applied. For a translucent look only one coat needs to be applied.

Cover-Coats: How can Cover-Coats be thickened?

A few drops of vinegar added to Cover-Coats will thicken it so that it can be used to create raised designs. Apply the thickened color with a brush or sponge.

Cover-Coats: My color is not coming out as bright as I want, why?

This happens if fired too cool in the bisque firing

Cover-Coats: My colors are coming out cloudy, why?

Underfiring of a clear glaze or too heavy of an application can cause your colors to be cloudy. If unfired, refire to proper cone.

E-Z Strokes: Can E-Z Strokes be used for solid color coverage?

They should not be used for solid-color coverage, but for design work. They are used for outlining, detailing, including eyes, personalizing with names and dates, and accenting design work.

E-Z Strokes: How many coats of E-Z Strokes should be applied?

Apply 1 coat to greenware. When applying keep well saturated for smooth, even brush strokes.

E-Z Strokes: My color is peeling after firing, what caused this?

E-Z Strokes could peel if they have been applied too heavily, or if the underglaze was applied to a dirty or dusty surface.

E-Z Strokes: What causes my colors to fade?

E-Z Stroke colors may appear faded if they have been fired too cool, or too hot, or there could be too much covering glaze applied. If fired too cool, refire to proper cone.

How to use Essence
 

Swish overglaze brush in solvent until bristles are free of product. Wipe on paper towel.

Tips & Techniques

Use a separate bottle of Essence for each overglaze product. Mark the bottles according to which overglaze product was used. Contamination can result if brushes and/or Essence used with one product come in contact with brushes and/or Essence used with another. For example, if you use Bright Gold and clean your brush in one bottle of Essence, then clean a brush used with Mother of Pearl in that same bottle of Essence, contamination will result and compromise all subsequent firings.

How to use Gloss Glazes
 

1. Apply 2-4 flowing coats.
2. Apply to shelf cone 04 bisque.
3. Fire to shelf cone 06-04.
4. Clean up with water.
5. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. Use Gloss Glazes for banding, marbleizing, spattering, sponging, stenciling and stippling.
2. Gloss Glazes can be used over underglazes, however their color may change the colors of the underglazes. Test-fire a small sample to test results.

How to use Granite Stone®
 

1. Stir contents of jar thoroughly.
2. Apply 1 generous coat with a soft brush; let dry, then apply second crisscross coat.
3. Clean up with water.
4. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. Granite Stone can be applied to ceramic bisque, fired glazed surfaces, wicker, wood, plastre, glass, papier-mache silk flowers and leaves.
2. For raised detailing, apply 3-4 coats.
3. For terracotta look, apply 2 solid coats of Canyon Rock Granite Stone; let dry; antique with White Water-Based Antiquing Gel.

How to use Liquid Pearls™
 

1. Shake well before each use.
2. Apply 2 or more smooth coats. Let dry between coats.
3. Thin with water or Thin 'n Shade if needed.
4. Clean up with water.
5. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. These colors dry brush easily for glimmering highlights.
2. Quite transparent, Liquid Pearls add gleaming accents to butterfly wings, flower petals, anywhere you want subtle glowing color.

How to use Mask 'n Peel®
 

1. Always dampen brush or sponge thoroughly with Duncan Brush Cleaner and squeeze out excess before loading with Mask ' Peel to desired areas.
2. Apply one good coat of Mask 'n Peel to desired areas.
3. Allow Mask 'n Peel to dry thoroughly before applying color over it. Heavy applications of Mask 'n Peel tend to dry on the surface before drying underneath. When this occurs, Mask 'n Peel peels off in layers. For this reason, any heavy areas should be checked for traces of Mask 'n Peel before proceeding with the technique.
4. When removing Mask 'n Peel, lift the corner of the masked area with a tool or fingernail, and use fingertips to roll the mask toward the area rather than away from it. In this way, the mask can usually be removed in one peice. However, always check for any small particles that may be left behind.
5. Always use Mask 'n Peel in a well-ventilated area.
6. Clean brush in Brush Cleaner and rinse in warm water immediately after use. If Mask 'n Peel should accidentally dry in the brush before it can be cleaned, soak in Antiquing Solvent or mineral spirits to loosen residue, then wash in warm, soapy water to complete cleaning. Wipe rim of jar and inside of lid, then close tightly.

Tips & Techniques

1. For underglaze designs: Apply base coat of opaque underglaze color to greenware. Paint design with Mask 'n Peel over base coat. When design is thoroughly dry, apply contrasting color over the ware. While color is still slightly damp, lift corner of masked area and peel off. Simple design work can be done with just one application of Mask 'n Peel. More colorful designs can be acheived with additional layers of Mask 'n Peel and color (except translucent underglazes) as long as the mask is removed after each color application.
2. For glaze designs: Paint a design with Mask 'n Peel directly on shelf cone 04 bisque or over 3 coats of dry, unfired glaze applied to witness cone 04 bisque. When mask is dry, apply one coat of a second glaze color, then remove mask while glaze is still slightly damp. As with underglazes, successive applications of Mask 'n Peel and 1 coat of glaze can be used.
3. For nonfired color designs, apply Mask 'n Peel directly to bisque for protection of areas while applying adjoining colors or apply over a base-coat color. When mask is dry, apply the adjoining or second color, then remove mask while color is still slightly damp. Repeat as desired.

How to use Quik-Crackle™
 

1. Base coat piece with Bisque-Stain OpaquesTM, Ultra Metallics or Liquid PearlsTM.
2. When base coat is dry, apply a smooth, even coat of Quik-Crackle. Clean brush immediately with water and Duncan Brush Cleaner, making sure no Quik-Crackle is left in the metal ferrule. Let Quik-Crackle dry for 20 mintues to one hour. Quik-Crackle can set overnight and the same exciting results will be achieved.
3. Working quickly, use a clean, soft brush to apply an even coat of a contrasting top-coat color over the dry Quik-Crackle. Choose top-coat color for best results from the Bisq-Stain Opaques line. Once the top-coat color has been applied, do not reapply more color after cracking starts. Cracking time may vary from color to color. Wait a few minutes for cracking to start.

Tips & Techniques

1. Cracking follows the direction in which the top-coat color was applied, that is, if color was swirled on, the cracks swirl. Straight strokes will give your project straight cracks.
2. Acheive large, bold cracks by applying a heaver top-coat color.
3. Achieve fine cracks by applying a thin top-coat color.
4. Acheive a fine, web cracking by sponging on top-coat color.
5. Flat Opaque brushes give the best results when applying Quik-Crackle.
6. Take your time with the project; be sure all phases are properly set or dry before proceeding to the next step.
7. When cracking has completed and the top-coat is completely dry, you can add brushstrokes or design work.
8. Seal the project with a spray or brush-on sealer.

How to use Spray Sealers
 

1. Shake can well before each use.
2. Holding can upright, 8-12 inches from surface, spray with slow, even motion.
3. Surface should have overall wet look, but don't spray too heavily to avoid sags and drips.
4. Wipe valve clean.

Tips & Techniques

1. After spraying, turn can upside down and spray until only clear gas appears.
2. If spray stops or is irregular, twist off spray head and clean.
3. Test spray on cardboard first to prevent sputtering.

How to use Wax Resist
 

1. Shake jar and stir well.
2. Always dampen brush or sponge thoroughly with Duncan Brush Cleaner and squeeze out excess before loading with Wax Resist.
3. Apply 1 good coat of Wax Resist over greenware, bisque, underglaze or glaze.
4. Allow Wax Resist to dry thoroughly before proceeding with technique.
5. Gently remove excess color from resist areas with a dampened sponge before firing.
6. Fire greenware to shelf cone 04.
7. Remove any loose perticles of fired underglaze with stiff brush before glazing. Glaze fire to shelf cone 06.
8. Clean brush in Brush Cleaner and rinse in warm water immediately after use. Wipe rim of jar and inside of lid, then close tightly.

Tips & Techniques

1. For underglaze designs, apply base coat of underglaze color to greenware. Paint design with Wax Resist over base coat. When design is thoroughly dry, apply contrasting color over the ware. Bisque fire to shelf cone 04. After bisque firing, remove loose underglaze particles with a stiff brush before glazing.
2. For glaze designs, paint designs with Wax Resist directly on shelf cone 04 bisque or over 3 coats of dry, unfired glaze applied to shelf cone 04 bisque. When Wax Resist is dry, apply 1 coat of a second glaze color over the ware. Fire to shelf cone 06.

How to use X-TREME Dimensions™
 

1. Apply with squeeze bottle.
2. Maintain steady squeeze pressure.
3. For greenware application, fire to shelf cone 04. Apply glaze, stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
4. For bisque application apply over glaze that has dried or under a glaze. Let XTREME Dimensions dry before glaze application, then stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.

Tips & Techniques

1. Popularly used with the stained glass technique. Create design outline on greenware; fire to shelf cone 04; fill design with various glaze colors; glaze fire to shelf cone 06.
2. Do not touch bottle tip to ware (this may cause the XTREME Dimensions to flatten).
3. Use in combination with other glazes for intriguing looks.
4. Use to outline design on ware.
5. Great for lettering.
6. Great for making dots.

How to use TS™ Translucent Stains
 

1. To antique, apply 1 thin coat over dry acrylic color, working it into all crevices; wipe back with soft cloth or tissue.
2. Clean up with water.
3. Seal with Ceramic Spray or Brush-On Sealer.
4. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. To remove more color, moisten cloth or tissue with water and wipe again.
2. To enhance color retention, lightly seal between layers of color.
3. For rouging, blush color on piece with a dry brush.
4. Reserve brushes for use only with Translucent Stains.

How to use Water-Based Antiquing Gels™
 

1. To antique, apply 1 coat over dry acrylic color, working it into all crevices; wipe back with soft cloth or tissue.
2. Clean up with water.
3. Seal with Ceramic Spray or Brush-On Sealer.
4. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. To remove more color, moisten cloth or tissue with water or Thin 'n Shade and wipe again.
2. For rouging, blush color on piece with a dry brush.

How to use Sparklers™ Brush-On Glitter
 

1. Mix well.
2. Apply 2-3 coats for solid coverage; let dry between coats.
3. Apply one coat for highlights.
4. Clean up with water.

Tips & Techniques

1. No need to seal, as Sparklers are self-sealing.
2. Wash brush with fabric softener to help remove glitter.

How to use Mother-of-Pearl
 

1. Be sure that the surface of your piece is free of dust, skin oils and lotions to ensure proper adhesion. Wipe surfaces with rubbing alcohol prior to applying the overglaze (except when used over crackle glazes.).
2. Always apply with a brush that is designated solely for use with Mother of Pearl to prevent contamination.
3. Do not stir or shake glaze.
4. Place a small amount of overglaze on a glazed palette.
5. For a swirled look, swirl on 1 coat, overlapping strokes.
6. For a smooth look, brush on all strokes in the same direction.
7. Correct application should produce a light blue tint.
8. Clean brush in Essence and let dry.
9. Overglazed ware can be fired while it is still wet. The kiln must be clean, well-ventilated (do not overload) and follow a normal firing schedule. Do not touch wet decoration and handle as little as possible until ware is fired to avoid smudging.
10. Stilt and fire Mother of Pearl to shelf cone 020.

Tips & Techniques

1. The appearance of Mother of Pearl will vary with the type of glaze over which it is applied. When applied over a gloss glaze, Mother of Pearl will add a shiny luster. When applied over a matte glaze, Mother of Pearl will add a dull luster.
2. If Mother of Pearl is accidentally applied on the wrong area, dip a cotton swab in Essence and wipe off misplaced color.
3. If any areas are missed, go back and touch up before Mother of Pearl dries.
4. If using a metallic overglaze and Mother of Pearl on the same piece, apply and fire the metallic overglaze first.

How to use Fired Snow
 

1. Stir well to a smooth consistency. Do not add water.
2. Apply heavily to shelf cone 04 bisque. Use a palette knife, brush, sponge, ice cream stick or squeeze bottle. Avoid thin application.
3. Apply over unfired glaze.
4. Fire the shelf cone 06.
5. Clean up with water.
6. Always refer to label instructions for proper application and usage.

Tips & Techniques

1. To obtain a different look, tint or accent Snow with E-Z Stroke® Translucent Underglazes.
2. Fired snow can simulate more than just snow, use it for ocean foam, clouds, etc.

How to use Brush-On Sealers
 

1. Stir contents of jar or shake bottle thoroughly before use.
2. Apply 2 coats with a soft brush to piece. Thin with water if necessary.
3. Clean up with water and Duncan Brush Cleaner.

Tips & Techniques

Brush-On Sealers can also be used over fired underglaze colors as a sealer in place of a fired glaze on decorative pieces.

How to use Clear Glazes
 

Clear Brush-On Glazes
IN1001 Envision Clear Glaze
1. Mix well.
2. Apply 2 coats to shelf cone 04 bisque.
3. Fire to shelf cone 06.
Water cleanup.

GL612 Diamond Clear Glaze
1. Mix well.
2. Apply 2 to 3 coats to shelf cone 04 bisque.
3. Fire to shelf cone 06.
Water cleanup.

SN351 Satin Clear Glaze
1. Mix well.
2. Apply 2 coats to shelf cone 04 bisque.
3. Fire to shelf cone 06.
Water cleanup.

Clear Dipping Glazes
Dipping Instructions apply to the following products:
CN2000D Concepts Clear Dipping Glaze
IN1001D Envision Clear Dipping Glaze
GL612D Diamond Clear Dipping Glaze
SN351D Satin Clear Dipping Glaze

1. Initially mix with electric mixer. Mix daily with wire whisk.
2. Wear protective gloves. Submerge TL 497 Viscosity Cup into glaze. Lift from glaze. Begin timing (stop timing when a steady stream of glaze begins to break - 18-23 seconds is normal). If above 23 seconds, mix in small amounts of water as needed.
3. Using gloved hands or dipping tongs, rapidly submerge ware into glaze, covering as much area as possible. Quickly lift ware out of glaze, giving ware a slight shake to minimize excess drips or runs. Let dry.
4. If necessary, dip unglazed portion, slightly overlapping glazed area for full coverage. Let dry.
5. Use a SB 807 Fan Glaze Brush to glaze any missed areas. Use TL 420 Palette Knife to shave off drips or runs to prevent airborne dust.
6. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
 

Clear Dipping Glaze
 


 



 
 
Mix in Pail

Mix with electric mixer for about 2 minutes until you see a vortex.

Avoid touching edges of pail with the mixing blade. 

A stainless steel wire whisk can be used to stir glaze periodically.



 



 
 
Check Viscosity

Submerge a TL497 Viscosity Cup into tank and fill with glaze.  As you lift cup from glaze, begin timing.  Stop timing when the steady stream of glaze begins to break and only a few drops remain.  A range of 19-23 seconds is normal.  If glaze remains in the cup and reading is below or within this range, or if it takes longer than 23 seconds to drain, the glaze is too thick.  Add small amounts of water as needed.



 



 
 
Dip bisque

Hold ware with hands or tongs.  If using hands, wear protective gloves.  Rapidly submerge cone 04 bisque, covering 1/2 to 3/4 of piece if large or completely if small.



 



 
 
Remove Bisque

Give hand a slight twist while quickly lifting ware out of glaze.



 



 
 
Test glaze for proper thickness

Coating should have thickness of a business card over nonpainted bisque areas. 

Colored areas may appear to have less glaze, which is normal.



 



 
 
Dry

Set ware on stilts or rack to dry.  Glaze will dry quickly.



 



 
 
Dip unglazed portion

If necessary on a larger piece, dip unglazed portion, slightly overlapping glazed area for full coverage. 

Let dry.



 



 
 
Touch Up

Use an SB807 fan glaze brush to touch up any missed areas with glaze after ware dries.  Some bubbles may appear after dipping, especially over painted areas.  These will disappear in the firing process. 

Use a TL420 palette knife to shave off drips or runs to prevent airborne dust.



 



 
 
Fire Glazed Bisque

Set ware securely on clean, sharp kiln stilts in kiln.  Fire to Shelf Cone 06.

We carry the GL612 dipping glaze and the IN1001 dipping glaze on our web site.

How to use Brush Cleaner
 

1. Remove excess color from brush, then work a small amount of cleaner into brush.
2. Rinse brush in warm water. Reshape brush and let dry.



 
How to use Art Glazes
 

1. Apply 3 flowing coats.
2. Apply to shelf cone 04 bisque.
3. Fire to shelf cone 06.
4. Clean up with