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Teacher Clay
Projects
Clay, tools, glazes and
supplies are available on this web site. |
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Coil Pot Construction
Use a low fire white clay (grey before firing) or
terra cotta (red) clay. Both available on our web site.
Coil pottery is a simple technique
that can have great results.
(Roll out coil)
Squeezing the clay into a
coil or rolling between your hands are two ways to make coils.
This technique can be difficult to make a smooth round coil
because of the uneven pressure from your hands and fingers.
(Roll out coil)
When hand rolling coils,use
a smooth surface and spreading your hands to apply even
pressure.Gently roll the clay back and forth.
(A good thickness)
Roll the coils so that
they are a little thicker than a pencil. Then stack the coils
one on top of another.
(Scrape inside)
For strength, force the clay
together on the inside of the piece. Use you finger and scrape
the top coil onto the coil under it.
(Smooth inside)
When smoothing the inside of
the piece hold you other hand on the outside so you do not
damage what you have completed already.
(Leveling the top)
If you want the top level,
gently turn your piece over and lightly tap it on a smooth
surface.
(Dry slowly)
When you are finished with
your piece let it dry slowly.The grooves in the piece are weak
spots and if this dries too quick it will crack. Fire at cone 06
to bisque coil pot.
Slab Construction
In this section you will learn how to put clay slabs
together to make a piece of pottery. Slab construction can have
great results if you take your time and do not rush the process.
(Spreading the clay)
Begin with a smooth flat surface. Place newspaper or cloth over
the surface to prevent the clay from sticking to your work
surface. Spread clay out by patting it with your whole hand.
(Flipping the clay)
To flip the clay over - carefully hold top and bottom of the
clay with the palms of your hands. This will prevent the clay
from tearing while you are flipping it.
(Rolling out the clay)
To help you roll your clay to an even thickness, place a yard
stick on each side and roll out until the clay is the same
thickness as your yard stick.
(Cutting your slabs)
Use a ruler to help you cut a straight line. (Tip: If you want
a 90` corner - lay a piece of paper over the clay to show the
90' corner.)
(Let clay firm-up)
After you cut out your bottom and sides, let them sit until the
clay is leather hard. For most clay's this will take about an
hour.
(Score or Scratch the edges)
When your clay is leather hard use a needle or sharp pencil to
scratch the edges of the clay where the clay will be joined
together. A criss-cross pattern works well for this.
(Apply slip to edges)
Make some slip by watering down a small amount of clay until it
is the consistency of yogurt. Magic mender is also great for
connecting items. Apply the slip or magic mender to the areas
you just scratched.
(Applying the slip or mender)
Apply Slip or mender with a brush or fingers.
(Joining the pottery)
When placing the edges together slide the two surfaces together
in a slight back and forth motion to strengthen the bond between
the surfaces.
(When you have a good bond)
With experience you will get the feel of a good bond. You will
know you have a good bond when most of the slip has squeezed out
between the two surfaces being joined together. Also, the clay
will not want to slide back and forth easily.
(Add a coil to the inside seam)
To make the seem stronger place a coil in the corners of the
piece. Gently press the coil into the corner. Be careful not
to break your corner away.
(Smoothing out the coil)
I like to use the top end of a brush to smooth out the corners.
Notice my other hand holding the corner so I don't break it
away.
(The final touches - Corners)
I use a damp brush to smooth out all the corners so the seams
are no longer visible.
The final touches - Top edge)
To smooth out the top edge use a wet paper towel and carefully
slid the towel up and down the length of each edge. This will
round the edges so they will not be sharp.
(Measuring for a top)
If you plan to make a lid measure the length and width of the
piece and write down the measurements. The piece will shrink as
it dries and you will need these measurements to make the lid.
(Finishing touch - Handles)
Rather than a lid I decided to place handles on each side. The
handles give the piece a focal point and makes it more
interesting to look at. Handles can be made in coil manner and
attached with slip or mender. See Making and Attaching handles
below.
Once you have completed your hand built slab piece, you will
need to dry it thoroughly before firing it. It is important to
dry the piece slowly and evenly. Handles tend to dry faster
than the rest of the piece and that will lead to cracking. If
the piece dries too quickly it may crack or warp. A good way to
dry your piece is to cover it evenly with a newspaper tent this
will allow the moisture to escape slowly. The slower the piece
dries the better.
Making and Attaching Handles
Handles are not only functional for lifting pieces but they
are also pleasing to look at. Pulling the handle and attaching
it involves making some decisions about size and shape. A
handle should always be strong enough to support the weight of
the piece. Also, if the piece might be used to lift something,
like a pitcher with water, the handle should be strong enough to
lift the piece plus its contents.
Making the Handle
(Begin with a ball of clay)
Take the clay and pat it into the shape of a carrot.
(Pulling the length of the clay)
Wet the clay and your hand and begin pulling the clay into a
long handle in a stroking fashion. You can not do this in one
pull. Pulling a handle may take 50 pulls or more. Each pull
will make the handle just a little longer.
(Let the handle sit to firm up)
After the handle is the correct size, let the handle firm up, by
placing it off the edge of a table. This handle has been lifted
back to the top so that the curve of the handle will already be
made when the handle firms up.
Attaching the Handle
(Both pieces are ready)
When the piece you are attaching the handle to is leather hard
and when the handle is firm you can attach the handle.
(Scratch the cup where the handle will be attached)
Using a sharp pencil or a needle tool - scratch the piece where
the handle will be attached.
(Press the top of the handle into place)
Scratch the handle where it will attach to the piece and press
the handle in place. It is a good idea to put slip on both
pieces before pressing it on.
(Do the same for the bottom)
Attach the bottom the same way you attached the top of the
handle. Dry as described above and fire.
Pinch Pot Construction
With pinching gestures, you can mold clay into objects such
as animals or even make a bowl. While this form of pottery
seems really basic, you can get a feel for the clay you are
working with and you will get to know the limits of your clay.
(Does it bend easily? Does it dry fast? Etc.)
To make a bowl...
(Begin with a ball of clay)
Begin with a ball of clay. Push your thumb into the center.
Then pinch up the walls.
(Turn the piece as you pinch)
Turn the piece as you pinch. This will help you to keep an even
thickness in the walls of the piece.
(Flatten the bottom)
Gently pat the bottom on a flat surface to create a flat spot on
the bottom of the piece. Let dry slowly and fire.
Coil Construction
(Another Technique)
This is another technique using coils to construct a piece of
pottery. This technique involve both making coils and pressing
them into a pattern.
(Roll coils)
Roll coils in a circular fashion.
(Make a pattern)
Line up coils rolls as seen here. Then place a couple coils on
top above and below the coil rolls.
(Fill in gaps)
Press a ball of clay in each gap that you can see through.
(Scrape and Smooth)
Scrape all the coils together. Don't worry about the other
side, your coil pattern will still be visible.
(Straighten edges)
After the coils have been scraped and smoothed, you might want
to straighten the edges by tapping a yard stick against the
edge. Your piece is now like a slab, however, your coil pattern
will still be visible on the other side.
(Lift carefully)
Carefully lift your coil slab.
(Make a bottom)
Cut out a shape for your bottom. I used a cup as a guide for my
bottom.
(Bend and attach to the bottom)
Carefully bend the coil slab around the bottom you cut out.
(Smooth the bottom)
Flip over your piece then scrape and smooth the bottom. A
finger that has been dipped in water works great for smoothing.
(Finishing touches)
On the area where the coil slab was put together use a pencil
and draw the coil pattern back onto the piece.
(Finishing touches - Smooth the top edge)
Smooth out the top and you piece is ready to dry slowly. It is
important to dry the piece slowly because the grooves from the
coils will crack if drying occurs too quickly.
Fire when totally dry!
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Techniques:
Clay/Handbuilding,
Project Time Span: 2
Hours
Skill Level:
Beginner
Mayco encourages all artists, regardless of
experience, to experiment with all levels. |
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| Instructions: |
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| 1. Roll 10 coils of clay about 3/4" to
1" in diameter and 10" in length. Try to keep the coils
of clay symmetrical and even. Keep on a slightly damp
piece of terry cloth until ready to use.
2. Start in the middle of one of the boards, lay out
5 lengths of coils perpendicular to one another about 1"
to 1 1/2" apart. Place a coil about 2" from one of the
corners to start the placing. Once the placement of the
5 coils are completed. Take one of the unused coils and
start to weave it over and under the 5 laid out
perpendicular coils. Alternate the over and under
placement of the coils. Repeat this process of weaving
the coils over and under one another until you have a
square. Make sure the placement of the coils are equal
in spacing as they relate to the interwoven coils. Do
not press or attach any coils to one another until you
make sure the placement and spacing are correct. Moisten
with water for securing the intersections of clay. No
need for
Slip or other mending products. However if if you
wish to use slip or magic mender to make the contacts
stronger that's fine.
3. Once the placement and spacing are completed,
along with the intersections moistened with water, place
the other board over the woven clay and press down
firmly. This performs two things: Flattens the coils and
adheres them together. Remove the top board for a
moment. Either visually or with the Carpenters Square,
trim up the edges. The Carpenter Square allows you to
make the piece more square but is not required. Once the
piece has been trimmed to a square, replace the top
board for drying. This will keep the piece flat and
alleviates any warping of the piece. Keep the board in
place for a day or so to prevent warping.
4. When the piece is completely dry for about 2-3
days after making the piece, clean the ware as you
normally would before
Firing.
5. Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 04. If you have used
a different clay body, refer to manufacturer's
Firing temperature to mature the clay.
6. Apply low fire glaze colors as desired.
7. Properly fire to shelf cone 06. |
Pocket Full of Posies - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Teaching Tips:
• Present real flowers to the students for ceramic flower ideas.
• Draw the flowers and their parts.
• Bring in potted plants so students can see plants that hang
over a pot edge.
• Use a color chart or wheel to help students with color
choices.
• Have students make patterns with objects in clay to practice
and select designs.
• Planting real flowers might help some students understand the
features and textures of flowers.
• Pre cut a pattern for the back and pocket of the hanging pot.
Miscellaneous Materials:
Concepts™ Underglazes for Bisque:
• 2 oz. Concept™ Underglazes in assorted colors
Envision™ Glazes:
• IN 1001 Clear Glaze
• Rubvber stamps, Tacky Glue
• Floral Glue
• Low fire white clay, Laguna EM210 (approximately 1 lb. for
each student)
• Rolling pin(s) for rolling slabs
• Cloth covered board (9 X 11)
• Plastic knives or bamboo stick for cutting the clay
• Bamboo sticks cut at different lengths
• Flower cookie cutters to make flowers
• Bucket of water for washing hands after the project
• Newspaper
Step-by-Step:
1. Give each student l lb. of clay.
2. Divide the clay into 2 pieces.1 piece needs
to be 2/3 of the clay & the other 1/3 of
the clay.
3. Flatten the larger piece of clay so that the clay can be
rolled to a flat ¼” thickness.
4. Use a pattern to cut the back of the plaque with a bamboo
stick.
5. Flatten the smaller piece of clay and roll it out to a ¼”
thickness for the pocket.
6. Use a pocket pattern to cut out one pocket. This will be a
little larger than the back piece because
you want the clay to bend to make room inside the pocket.
7. Refer to pre drawn designs and patterns and talk about design
and placement of the stamps.
8. Let the children pick from the assortment of stamps. Let them
press in the designs before
assembling the pocket to the back. Be sure they decorate both
the back and the pocket.
9. When the back and the pocket are finished, score the edge of
the back where the pocket will be
placed. Also, score the back of the pocket on the edge.
10. Place a small-wadded piece of newspaper or paper towel in
the center of the area where the
pocket will be placed. This will hold the pocket up away from
the back.
11. Place slip (a mixture of clay and water) on the scored areas
and put the two pieces together. With
your thumb, press the edge of the pocket together around the
bottom of the plaque. You can use
other things to press instead of your thumb, i.e. tongue
depressor, paper clip and Popsicle stick,
etc.
12. Place two holes at the top of the plaque for the yarn to go
through for hanging.
Flowers and Leaves
1. Using Flower Cheaters, press a small lump of clay onto the
form and smooth off the clay on the
edges.
2. With another tiny piece of clay lift the edge of the clay
from the Flower Cheater form.
3. Place a hole in the middle of the flower with a bamboo stick.
4. Let dry thoroughly.
Fire, Decorate, Finish
1. Set aside under newspaper to dry, 3 to 7 days.
2. When the piece is completely dry, bisque fire to Cone 04.
3. Decorate with a variety of Duncan Concepts. Use at least two
coats of Concepts to make bright
and intense designs. Leave the clay without paint in some areas.
4. Brush on IN 1001 Clear Glaze and Fire to Cone 06.
Assembly Flowers
1. Use different lengths of bamboo sticks and Tacky Glue to
assemble.
2. Dip the end of the bamboo stick onto the Tacky Glue and then
stick into the
hole of the flower.
3. Using Floral Glue in the bottom of the pocket, place
your flowers in the pocket.
Other Uses For Your Pocket Plaque
1. Add stick candy i.e. candy canes, Tootsie Pops
2. Pencil holder
3. Dried flower arrangements
4. Plant Nasturtiums seeds in dirt
5. Plant succulents
6. Holds your keys
Character Bust - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Grade
Level: K-3 & 4-6
Duration:
3-½ hours: 1st
day-1 hour, 2nd
day-1 hour, 3rd
day- 1 hour, and 4th day- ½ hour.
Preparation:
Share historical bust images.
Provide examples of the best available character analysis and read
story examples.
Build a bust prior to the lesson as an example.
Pre draw possible ideas, at least three drawings to help start the
project.
Discuss the process and present a timeline for the work.
Vocabulary:
Three-dimensional
Having height, width, and depth. Also referred to as 3-D.
Subtractive
Refers to sculpting method produced by removing or taking away
from the
original material (the opposite of additive).
Structure
The
way in which parts are arranged or put together to form a whole.
Sculpture
A
three-dimensional work of art either in the round (to be viewed
from all sides) or
in
base relief (low relief in which figures protrude slightly from
the background).
Duncan
Materials:
Cover-Coat™
Glazes:
Varity of Cover-Coat™ Glazes
For
25 students, this project would require:
CC101 Artic White, 3, 2 oz. bottles
CC190 Baby Blue, 3, 2 oz. bottles
CC117 Walnut Brown, 5, 2 oz. bottles
CC165 Black Brown, 5, 2 oz. bottles
Character Bust - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Envision™
Glazes:
IN
1001 Clear Glaze, 1 pt.
IN
1074 Cranberry (first skin color) 10, 2 oz. bottles
IN
1054 Cantaloupe (second coat skin color) 10, 2 oz. bottles
Brushes/Tools:
BR 582 No. 5/0 Detail
BR 529 No. 4 Sabeline Round
TL
415 Sponge
Miscellaneous Materials:
60 pounds of White bodied clay (approximately 2 lbs. for each
student)
Newspaper
Drawing paper
Sturdy paper plates or pieces of wood for student busts
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1.
After pre drawing some of your ideas, start building scaffolding
out of clay slab, this will
support your bust. Your bust must be hollow because solid forms
will explode due to air
pockets.
2.
Once the scaffolding is built start molding your clay slab into
a head shape around the
scaffold. Don’t forget the shoulders, they will help stabilize
your bust so it will not fall over.
3.
Once the basic shape is in place you can start adding and
removing for specific features.
4.
Once your head is complete set it aside.
5.
Set aside the piece under newspaper to dry for two to three
days.
6.
When the piece is completely dry, paint your design with
Cover-Coat™ and Envision™ Glazes
underglazes, stilt and carefully bisque fire to Cone 04.
7.
Paint the eyes and teeth with Envision™ IN 1001 Clear Glaze.
Fire to Cone 06.
Assessment:
Set high standards for students and discuss how to reach them.
Discuss with students why decisions were made based on insight,
rationale and technique.
Have students assess their own work, in addition to their peers, to
gain understanding and
appreciation.
Use a variety of specific types of evaluation to determine
individual and group performance.
Continue assessment after project completion to help students
reflect on projects and enhance
further creations.
Clowning Around - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Grade Level: K-8
Educational Objectives:
This lesson provides opportunities for students to:
• Learn how to make different shapes in clay to make facial
expressions.
• Learn how to attach fired clay parts to a bisque tile to make
a clown face.
• Or learn how to create an original clown from the hand-built
face.
Duncan Materials:
For 30 Students
Bisque/Clay:
30 lbs of white low-fire clay
Concepts Underglaze for Bisque:
• CN 501 Neon Yellow
• CN 502 Neon Blue
• CN 504 Neon Orange
• CN 505 Neon Green
• CN 506 Neon Coral
• CN 221 Light Blush
• CN 253 Black
Envision Clear Brush-On Glaze:
• IN 1001
Clowning Around - - Ceramic Art Lesson Plan
Brushes/Tools:
• SB 806- #6 Round
• SB 807- #6 Fan Glaze
• SB 820- #1 Liner
• TL 401- Cleanup Tool
Miscellaneous Materials:
• Garlic press or clay press
• Board to roll out clay
• Rolling pin
• Short bamboo skewers for cutting clay and detailing
• Water containers
• Disposable plates to use as palettes
Step-by-Step:
1. Flatten the clay so that clay can be rolled flat to 1/8th”
thickness.
Use a garlic press or clay pres to push clay through for hair.
2. Make round balls for the eyes and nose. Indent your thumb in
the back of the ball. This will be the
side that will be placed on the tile.
3. Lips can be made by rolling clay into a coil and shaping it
for the mouth, or roll out a piece of clay
and cut out a shape.
4. Once these shapes are completed and smoothed with a tiny bit
of water and your finger, attach
them by scoring the piece and use a little clay slip. The eyes
and nose must have an air vent (a
hole) under the pieces through the back of the face.
5. Now you can dress your clown with a hat, ribbon, ears, a
collar or ruffle. Be creative!!
6. The clay face will have to dry flat until the clay is
completely dry. You can test the dryness of the
clay by touching the clay to your face. If it is cold and not
light in color it is still wet and will
explode in the kiln when fired.
7. Fire to cone 04, firing them flat on the shelf.
8. Decorate with Concepts. Use at least two coats of the colors
to give bright and intense colors.
9. Brush on IN 1001 Clear glaze. Fire to cone 06.
